Tartar in dogs and cats

Tartar (dental calculus) is mineralised dental plaque: yellow or brown deposits, most often on the canines and the back upper teeth. But it is only the tip: under the gums there may be inflammation, periodontal pockets and bone loss. Tartar does not go away on its own and is not dissolved by pastes or gels — it can only be removed professionally.

  1. Tartar on the crown — what owners can see.
  2. Plaque and tartar under the gum — the main source of inflammation.
  3. Periodontal pocket — a gap between the gum and the root.
  4. Bone around the root breaks down, and the tooth loses support.
Tartar on the crown is only the visible part. Periodontal pockets and bone loss are assessed under anaesthesia, with probing and dental X-rays.

Important note for owners

In cats, tartar is often less obvious than in dogs, but mouth pain is frequently caused by other conditions — tooth resorption (TR) or chronic gingivostomatitis. So even a small amount of tartar in a cat is a reason for an examination, not just a clean.

Most common possible causes

  • —Plaque without daily brushing. Bacterial plaque forms on the teeth all the time. If it isn't brushed away, some of it mineralises into tartar, and the rough surface of tartar holds even more plaque.
  • —Breed and age. In small breeds — Yorkshire Terriers, Chihuahuas, Spitz, Dachshunds, Poodles — tartar and periodontal disease appear earlier and progress faster. Deposits usually increase with age.
  • —Crowded teeth and bite. Tightly packed or misaligned teeth are harder to keep clean. This is common in small and short-nosed (brachycephalic) breeds.
  • —Retained baby teeth. A baby tooth that stays next to the adult tooth creates crowding where plaque collects quickly.
  • —Diet. The type of food affects how fast plaque builds up, but ordinary dry food does not clean the teeth at the gumline and does not replace brushing.

From plaque to periodontitis: how plaque and tartar destroy the tooth's support

Tartar on a dog's teeth doesn't appear overnight. After a cleaning, bacterial plaque — a soft, sticky film that a toothbrush can still remove — starts settling on the smooth tooth surface again within hours. If it isn't brushed away, within a few days minerals from saliva begin to harden it, gradually turning it into tartar that a toothbrush can no longer remove.

The rough surface of tartar holds even more plaque, so deposits build up layer by layer and creep under the gumline. Bacteria trigger inflammation — first gingivitis: the gums turn red, swell and bleed. At this stage the bone is still intact, and after a professional cleaning and with daily home care the inflammation can resolve.

If the inflammation continues, it spreads deeper and destroys the periodontal ligament that holds the tooth and the bone around the root. This is periodontitis: periodontal pockets form, the gums recede and the teeth start to loosen. Lost bone does not grow back on its own, so the aim of treatment is to stop the inflammation and keep the teeth that still have enough support. That's why I advise not waiting until there is “a lot” of tartar: the earlier the cleaning, the better the chance of avoiding extractions.

  1. PD0
    Healthy
    Gums fit tightly around the tooth; bone is at its normal level.
  2. PD1
    Gingivitis
    Plaque at the gumline; gums are red and bleed. Bone is intact — this stage is reversible.
  3. PD2–PD3
    Periodontitis
    A periodontal pocket forms; up to half of the bone support is lost.
  4. PD4
    Advanced periodontitis
    More than half of the support is lost; roots are exposed and the tooth is loose.
The four cards cover the five AVDC stages (PD2 and PD3 combined): PD0 — healthy, PD1 — gingivitis, PD2–PD3 — periodontitis, PD4 — advanced periodontitis. The stage is determined under anaesthesia with probing and dental X-rays, not by how much tartar is visible on the crown.
  • ✓Healthy (PD0): the gums are pink or naturally pigmented and fit snugly around the teeth; there is no persistent bad breath.
  • ✓Gingivitis (PD1): a red line along the gum margin, blood on the toothbrush or toys, bad breath. Behaviour usually doesn't change.
  • ✓Periodontitis (PD2–PD3): swollen or receding gums and stronger breath odour; there may be a lot of tartar or very little. Your dog may chew on one side or be reluctant to take hard treats.
  • ✓Advanced periodontitis (PD4): exposed roots, loose or missing teeth, possibly pus or swelling along the jaw. At this stage the teeth are usually painful, even if your pet is still eating.

Why some dogs build up tartar faster

Even with the same care, tartar builds up at different speeds in different dogs. These are the factors I take into account when planning check-ups and home care.

  • ✓Small and toy breeds — Yorkies, Chihuahuas, Toy Terriers, Spitz, Maltese: the teeth are relatively large for a small jaw and there is less bone around the roots, so periodontitis develops earlier.
  • ✓Crowded teeth: in small and short-nosed breeds the teeth often sit tightly or are rotated, leaving niches that are hard to reach with a toothbrush.
  • ✓Retained baby teeth: a narrow gap forms next to the adult tooth where plaque collects even in a young dog. Have such teeth checked by a veterinary dentist as early as possible.
  • ✓Chewing on one side: if a tooth hurts, the dog chews with the healthy side, so the teeth on the other side get less natural cleaning and tartar builds up faster. Noticeably more tartar on one side is a reason to check that side for a painful tooth.
  • ✓No daily brushing: a toothbrush is the most effective home method that mechanically removes plaque at the gumline before it mineralises. Occasional brushing can't keep up with new plaque.
  • ✓Age: deposits accumulate over the years, so periodontitis is found more often in older dogs.
  • ✓Diet: the type of food affects how fast plaque builds up, and dental diets with the VOHC seal can reduce it. But no food replaces brushing or removes tartar that has already formed.

When not to postpone an exam

  • ✓Visible yellow or brown tartar on the teeth
  • ✓Persistent bad breath
  • ✓Red, swollen or bleeding gums
  • ✓Blood on toys, treats or in the bowl
  • ✓Your pet avoids hard food or chews on one side
  • ✓Loose teeth, or gums that have receded and exposed the root
  • ✓Pus from under the gum or around a tooth

Urgent help needed

  • ✓Swelling of the face, under the eye or along the jaw — especially if it is getting bigger quickly
  • ✓Pus together with swelling, lethargy or a raised temperature
  • ✓Your pet refuses food completely
  • ✓Bleeding from the mouth that won't stop
  • ✓The jaw is suddenly misaligned or hanging, the mouth won't close, or there is sharp pain after a minor knock — possible jaw fracture

What you can do at home

  • ✓Brush the teeth daily with a toothbrush and pet toothpaste — the most effective way to prevent new plaque.
  • ✓Introduce brushing gradually: short sessions, a calm setting and rewards.
  • ✓As an add-on, you can choose treats or food with the VOHC seal — their effect on plaque or tartar was tested to the Veterinary Oral Health Council's standards.
  • ✓Not sure how serious it is? Lift the lip, photograph the teeth from the side and send the photos for an online consultation on Telegram.
  • ✓Remember: home care prevents new plaque, but it does not remove tartar that has already formed.

What not to do at home

  • —Don't chip tartar off with a scaler, a fingernail or other tools — it injures the gums and enamel, and the deposits under the gum stay
  • —Don't rely on powders, gels, sprays or “tartar removers” — they don't remove tartar that has already formed
  • —Don't agree to tartar removal without anaesthesia (for example, at a groomer's): the crowns look clean, but inflammation under the gums goes unnoticed
  • —Don't use human toothpaste — it isn't meant to be swallowed, and xylitol in some products is toxic to dogs
  • —Don't give very hard bones or antlers as a “tartar remedy” — they are a common cause of broken teeth

What diagnostics may be needed

  • ✓Consultation: assessment of plaque, gums, breath and bite
  • ✓Examination of every tooth under anaesthesia as part of COHAT
  • ✓Periodontal probing: pocket depth and tooth mobility
  • ✓Full-mouth dental radiography

The amount of tartar doesn't show how diseased the teeth are. A little tartar can hide deep pockets and bone loss, while heavy tartar sometimes covers relatively healthy tissue. This only becomes clear with probing and dental X-rays.

Unfamiliar term in the diagnosis?If the report mentions TR, FCGS, pulpitis or a periodontal stage, the glossary explains each term briefly.Glossary

How treatment may proceed

  • ✓Ultrasonic removal of tartar above and below the gumline under anaesthesia
  • ✓Air Flow plaque removal and polishing to keep tooth surfaces smooth for longer
  • ✓Treatment of periodontal pockets when clinically indicated
  • ✓Extraction of teeth that have already lost their bone support — only after X-rays
  • ✓A personalised home-care plan and a date for the follow-up check

COHAT in a Maltipoo: why it's not just a teeth cleaning

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Tartar myths

  • Myth: Tartar is only a cosmetic problem.
    In fact: Tartar holds plaque, which keeps the gums inflamed, and the bone around the roots can be silently destroyed underneath it. Periodontitis can cause pain and tooth loss.
  • Myth: Dry food cleans the teeth.
    In fact: Ordinary kibble shatters at the first bite and doesn't clean the teeth at the gumline. Special dental diets with the VOHC seal can reduce plaque, but even they only complement brushing.
  • Myth: A groomer can safely remove tartar without anaesthesia.
    In fact: Without anaesthesia only the visible tartar on the crown is removed, while deposits and pockets under the gums go unnoticed. A clean crown gives a false impression of healthy teeth, and a sharp instrument in the mouth of a moving pet can injure the gums.
  • Myth: Bones and antlers clean the teeth.
    In fact: Hard bones, antlers and hooves are a common cause of broken teeth, and they don't remove plaque at the gumline. For chewing, choose products that dent when you press a fingernail into them.
  • Myth: If my dog eats and plays, the teeth don't hurt.
    In fact: Dogs and cats usually hide chronic pain and keep eating even with diseased teeth. Pain more often shows in small changes — chewing on one side, swallowing food whole, reluctance to chew toys.
  • Myth: After a cleaning, tartar won't come back.
    In fact: Plaque starts forming again within hours of the procedure, and without home care tartar returns. After a cleaning I draw up a personalised plan for home care and follow-up checks.

Frequently asked questions

No. At home you can prevent new plaque with daily brushing, but tartar that has formed is removed only professionally — with ultrasonic scaling under anaesthesia. Trying to chip it off with tools injures the gums and doesn't reach the areas under the gumline.

Without anaesthesia only the visible tartar on the crown can be removed. The main inflammation is under the gums, which need probing, subgingival cleaning and X-rays. In addition, under anaesthesia with intubation the airway is protected from the water and bacteria sprayed by the ultrasonic scaler.

It varies from pet to pet. Plaque starts forming within hours of the procedure and, without brushing, can begin to mineralise within a few days. How soon visible tartar returns depends on the breed, the bite and how regularly the teeth are brushed at home.

There is no universal interval: it depends on the breed, home care and the state of the gums. After the procedure I explain how to care for the teeth at home and recommend when to come back for a check-up.

Products with the VOHC seal can reduce plaque or tartar build-up, but they complement brushing rather than replace it, and they don't remove existing tartar.

Plaque formation can't be stopped entirely, but slowing its conversion into tartar is very achievable. The foundation is daily brushing with a pet toothpaste; products with the VOHC seal can be added on top. Brushing is easiest to introduce from a young age, and regular check-ups help catch gingivitis while it is still reversible.

I perform professional cleaning as part of the COHAT protocol: the base price is 7 500 ₴ for pets up to 20 kg and 9 700 ₴ over 20 kg. Anaesthesia is charged separately, and any treatment needed is discussed after diagnostics.

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